New Findings on Indigenous Lebanese Grapes
A summary of Dr. Joe Merheb's latest study
Before you dive into this summary, go back and read this:
Joe Merheb is back —he’s a doctor now and he has news. In his latest published study, ”Exploring the genetic diversity of Lebanon’s underexploited grapevine resources,” Merheb reports his findings after spending the last 2 years analyzing grapevine samples from 83 locations in Lebanon.
This project was a collaborative effort involving Joe Touma from Chateau St. Thomas, Lamis Chalak from the Lebanese University, and French partners from the INRAE Montpellier and Institut Agro Montpellier all grouped under Agap Institute, where Merheb conducted his PhD. All laboratory work was performed under the supervision of Patrice This.
This comprehensive study was the first of its kind, unpacking the molecular (genetic) and morphological (physical structure) characterization of the Lebanese grapevine germplasm.1 The main objectives were to investigate grapevine identities, detect copies, assess genetic diversity, log the morphology of undocumented grapes in international databases, and examine genetic relatedness within the Lebanese and Mediterranean germplasms.
To do all that, during the summer of 2022, Merheb collected 276 accessions with an emphasis on old/abandoned vines and vineyards. He then took these samples to France where he compared their genetic profiles with two existing databases: Vassal-Montpellier grapevine collection and Vitis International Variety Catalog (VIVC) - that’s comparing them to over 25,000 varieties!
Using these databases, Merheb crossed out the samples that were synonyms (same DNA with a different name) and homonyms (same DNA with similar names, different spellings). If a profile had no match in either database, it was considered “unidentified” or up for grabs. I say that because, claiming indigeneity is actually about being the first to register cultivars under your country’s name in these databases. I’ll get into why that’s oversimplifying things later.2
Of the 276 samples, 163 matched with 39 existing genetic profiles.
From these 39 found in the two databases, 10 are registered in the VIVC database as Lebanese and the remaining 29 are of foreign origin, including 13 from the Eastern Mediterranean and 8 from the Americas.
The two known grapes that had the most synonyms were Blanc de Dellys from Maghreb (known locally as Merwah, Baladi, Mekaki, Itani, Zehlawi, Daw el Qamar, or Ghomri) and Dabouki from the Eastern Mediterranean3 (known locally as Maghdoushi, Hifawi, Solte, Abou loulou, or Asabih el Aarous).
Some fun facts pulled from the study:
53 accessions were obtained from ancient vineyards aged between 30 and 80 years. 10 accessions, over 70 years old, were found in an abandoned state and lying on the ground in the villages of Ainata (Baalbek-Hermel), Bekaa Kafra (North Lebanon), and Akoura, Hdeineh, Yanouh (Mount Lebanon), many with unknown vernacular names.
3 vines were estimated to be older than 100 years were found: growing near an abandoned house in Nahr el Dehab (Mount Lebanon), a school in the heart of Beirut, and a monastery in Bsarma (North Lebanon)
18 accessions were growing on high-altitude, ancient stone-walled terraces in Hadchit (North Lebanon), located at a UNESCO World Heritage site encompassing the Qadisha Valley
Emblematic varieties were found in Hadchit (Zitani & Halbouti) and Rachaya (Souri, Fodde, and Halawani)
Many samples had names that were based on their geographical origin (like “Sariini” or “Ainati” referring to Bekaa villages), morphological traits like the shape of the berry (“Hommosi,” as in chickpeas), or distinctive traits (“Bakhouri” referring to its musky aroma)
Lebanese grape Beitamouni, meaning growing next to a house, has been reported throughout the Mediterranean basin, under synonyms like “Cuerno de Buey” in Spain, “Asba El Arus” and “Safadi” in Palestine, “Nychato” in Greece, and “Rich Baba Sam” in Tunisia
Some analysis suggested ongoing genetic interactions and hybridization events between cultivated and potentially wild grapevines (V. sylvestris) in the region, enriching the genetic diversity of the population
There are signs that Lebanon played a big role in grapevine exchange and cross-continental breeding activities, particularly as the Bekaa Valley was a hub for agriculture and transportation
“These cultivars were likely shared across the entire region rather than confined to a single country.”
The system of proving origins is a bit flawed, especially for a region with so much maritime trade between/within empires across its history.
For Merwah, even though it was the grape most represented in the samples collected - some from vines more than 80 years old - Merwah comes up as Blanc de Dellys. However, Blanc de Dellys is registered as Tunisian in one database and Algerian in another, with its name referencing Dellys, a city on the Mediterranean coast of Algeria.
Looking into its pedigree made its heritage more questionable. A genetic relationship between Merwah and (Turkish) Assoued Kere and (Lebanese) Souri. Structure analysis also places Blanc de Dellys in the heart of the Eastern Mediterranean group. Merheb questions these scientific coincidences. Knowing that in the late 1800s, there was movement of grapevines between Lebanon and Algeria as evidenced by Chateau Ksara’s founding Jesuit monks trade with the then-French colony, could it be that Blanc de Dellys went to the Maghreb from here rather than the other way around? It would explain its abundance near ancient Lebanese monasteries, the study implies.
The study lists other examples where registered grapevines may have more complicated beginnings. Much like our hummus and arak, there was a lot of movement in these parts so while you can claim something is native to the region, it’s hard to claim anything is only Lebanese. Modern-day borders didn’t exist just 100 years ago. There was plenty of mixing and mingling that didn’t include the “proper” authorities or their paperwork.
As stated in the study, “the similarity we observed with the Eastern Mediterranean gene pool is likely due to the Ottoman rule over Bilad al Sham, which lasted more than 400 years. During this period, the region was subjected to a single administration, facilitating the circulation and exchange of grapevine propagation material.”
What do we do with this grape information?
“The discovery of a significant number of previously unidentified genotypes not only enhances our understanding of Lebanon’s viticultural landscape but also underlines the resilience and preferences for local cultivars among Lebanese farmers, and underscores the need for concerted conservation efforts to protect and propagate these rare and unique resources, particularly the minor Lebanese autochthonous cultivars.” - from the study
Unfortunately, not enough samples were procured from southern Lebanon for this study and, with the current ecocide being carried out by Israel, undoubtedly Lebanon has already lost some genetic gems as a result. At the same time, the country’s favoring of international varieties risks stifling our indigenous grapevine diversity. One move that would ensure the conservation of these native vines is to link them to commercially viable byproducts (which doesn’t have to be limited to just wine).
After cultivars matching those already in the databases and their duplicates under different names were removed, we’re left with 63 unique, unidentified profiles which means we’ve got tons of potential to explore with these “new” natives.
The next step is taking these wine grape candidates and seeing how they perform under heat and drought stress, as well as what they can produce via fermentation and vinification. Rediscovering these survivors would not only give the Lebanese wine industry more ingredients to leverage on the international stage with but also, the diversity will give the country an edge against increasingly difficult conditions thanks to climate change.
Lebanon is one of the first homes of grapevine domestication. What do we do now? We keep digging deeper into the history of our foodways, experimenting with more local grapes, and making Eastern Mediterranean wine.
As Merheb said during his thesis defense, because so many of our ancient varieties are still here and thriving, indigenous people remain the best caretakers of the land.
Some words from Dr. Joe Merheb:
“This work means so much to me, it's like the discovery of a hidden treasure, a part of Lebanon's heritage buried in the vines of our land, waiting to be revealed. It is very close to my heart because it will be a legacy for all the farmers and people who believed in our land, who have been nurturing these cultivars through generations and trusting in the richness of what Lebanon has to offer. I am proud and humbled to have achieved such results alongside the entire research team, knowing that it is not just a scientific achievement but a vital step in preserving part of our history and culture.
Now the main question becomes how we can implement effective conservation strategies to protect these varieties and adapt their sustainable utilization in the face of climate change. This mission feels more urgent than ever, as these varieties are not only valuable for winemaking, as demonstrated by the ongoing work at Chateau St. Thomas, but they also hold immense potential for their original use as table grape varieties or other traditional applications.
This work is just the beginning of a journey to uncover everything these varieties have to offer. This entire experience has brought to light a profound and personal connection between me and my Lebanon, and between our land, our heritage, and our future. I couldn’t be more grateful to play a role in it.”
Congrats to Dr. Joe Merheb on completing such a huge project and contributing years to Lebanese grape studies. This is a major achievement for Lebanon and it’s a study that can push our wine industry forward.
And also, thank you for always answering my questions so generously!
Germplasm: genetic material of a species, population, landrace, hybrid, or cultivar that can then be transmitted generationally.
Clarification from Merheb: “Technically, it’s both a yes and no situation. We have identified many varieties as autochthonous, proving their Lebanese origin through pedigree analysis. However, if another country later finds the same variety and provides scientific evidence that it originated there, we may have to revisit the origins. For example, a variety might have come from the Balkans through migration and was first recorded in our study in Lebanon. If solid evidence from that region later proves the opposite, it would be worth reevaluating. This is similar to what happened with Merwah.”
According to a similar study conducted by Fadi Batarseh, winemaker of Cremisan Estate in Bethlehem, Dabouki and Marawi are native Palestinian grapes. In the study summarized above, there is a citation saying that this variety is “cultivated across the Near East, including Palestine, Lebanon, Syria, and Jordan.”
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So cool. I love that a grape was named for growing beside a house. That's very endearing to me.