Recent Coverage of Lebanese Wine
The current war caused a spike in coverage by international wine media
In 2020, just after the August 4th port explosion, there was an uptick in articles about Lebanese wine by international wine publications. If we look at the media landscape today, from late September through October, we experienced another prolonged spike in coverage thanks to our prolonged war status.
The purpose of this list is to keep a record of this phenomenon. Let me be clear: this is not an attack on any writer or publication. But, if you are in wine media, please take a second to consider the pattern below.
On September 22, in letter 3 of my letter exchange with
, I wrote:“Now that the country is in the news cycle again, I’m expecting that major wine publications will remember Lebanese wine exists. The reason for our reappearance (Israel) will be sideswept with vague phrases like, “as Lebanon faces turmoil once again.” Unfortunately, we’re so desperate for press and the external validation (and thus, dollars) it provides that no one rejects these so-called opportunities.”
Just two days before, on September 20, Julia Harding MW chose Domaine des Tourelles’ Cinsault 2021 as the wine of the week on Jancis Robinson’s website. In the first paragraph, she writes, “in a week in which Lebanon has again been in the news because of death and destruction, I wanted to celebrate the life that continues to be created every year at Domaine des Tourelles in the most challenging circumstances imaginable.” As noted in the piece, they’ve covered Tourelles many times over the years especially as an outlet that highlights the use of old vines in winemaking. However, the wording in the first sentences makes it seem as if death and destruction just live here. They were not caused by an external force.
Then, two Instagram reels made by local winemakers understandably caught the attention of the press. The first by Elias Maalouf of Chateau Rayak and the second by Eddie Chami of Mersel Wine. Posted on September 23rd, Maalouf showed his Bekaa winery facilities being the casualty of an Israeli airstrike while saying in Arabic, we will not kneel.
A week later, on the 30th, Chami shared a reel, shot in the dark with light coming only from his headlamp, where he explained that the road leading to his winery in Dimane had been hit by an Israeli airstrike.
Here’s a roundup of all the press that was published afterward:
“Winemaker Risks Life for This Year’s Harvest” by Nora Thorp Bjørnstad for Verdens Gang (published September 27, 2024 in Norwegian)*
“They hit everyone and anyone” by Alex Chams for New York Magazine featuring winemaker Elias (published October 2, 2024)
“Lebanon Winemakers Pray for Peace” by Barnaby Eales for Wine-Searcher (published October 3, 2024)
“This Woman-Run Winery Is Pushing Lebanon’s Wine Industry Forward” by Christina Pickard for Bon Appetit (published October 3, 2024) which resembles Henna Bakshi’s “Amid Global Challenges, Lebanon’s Women Winemakers Continue to Persevere” for Food & Wine (published August 7, 2024)
“Lebanon’s Winemakers Are Caught in the Fire of War” by Henna Bakshi for Wine Enthusiast (published October 7, 2024)
”Torrid times for winemakers in the Middle East” by Nick Koshan for Decanter that spoke to “producers in Lebanon and Israel about how their day-to-day life and work has been affected by conflict in the region.” (published October 9, 2024)
“As War in the Middle East Expands, Winemakers Persevere” by Kristen Bieler for Wine Spectator where “wine producers in Israel, Lebanon and the West Bank share their stories” (published October 9, 2024)
“Armed conflict devastates the wine industry in Israel, Lebanon and the West Bank” for Vinteur (published October 10, 2024)
“Here’s how two winemakers also challenge war to produce natural wine in Lebanon” by Carlotta Sanviti for Gambero Rosso (published October 11, 2024 in Italian)*
“Wine, olives and desolation: clinging on in Lebanon’s ghost villages” by Louise Callahan for The Times (published October 13, 2024)
“Ixsir defies the odds to complete harvest” by Jo Gilbert for Harpers (published October 18, 2024)
“Lebanon producer harvests grapes despite bombings” by James Evison for The Drinks Business (published October 18, 2024)
“Wine with Leslie: Show your support for Lebanon — and its winemakers” by Leslie Williams for Irish Examiner (published October 25, 2024)
“Lebanon's Wine Region Wrestles With War” by Hashem Osseiran for AFP (published October 28, 2024)
“Lebanon: how winemakers are battling adversity” by Chris Boiling for IWC’s Canopy (published October 29, 2024)
*There are probably more articles in other languages I can’t read but I know of these because they were shared by the wineries themselves
“Why does it matter? It’s just wine media!”
Before late September, we were given very little attention despite Israel destroying large parts of southern Lebanon and the Bekaa for close to a year. Then, after the war was upgraded to “all-out war” and Lebanon’s harvest was hot news, the international press couldn’t get enough of us. Is it because the violence of war is on-brand for the West’s version of Lebanon?
Media folks aren’t to blame for this entirely. I understand wanting any coverage after watching so much carnage unfold. However, as Lebanese, we also need to be careful. We must be conscious and selective of (1) how we are contributing to this reductive framing of our country and our people, (2) who we trust with our stories, and (3) when they come a-knocking.
Wine is political and we have so much working against us already. Instead of preferring to stay neutral or quiet, let’s be strategic about how we want to be presented to the world.
Are there any articles I missed? Add them in the comments below.
When I was still freelancing, I noticed about 10 years ago there was this shift to getting out articles that were "newsy" as opposed to being good coverage of wine, which is what Lebanon deserves. The wine media at large have horribly missed their mark in understanding that people who read about wine aren't looking for CNN style coverage. It's unshocking that there's little worth reading these days at the main outlets and the more engaging content has gone independent.
It's interesting that it was the wine industry that got the coverage as a result of the Israeli attacks. Not unexpected given how good the wine is. We import and sell Lebanese extra virgin olive oil in the UK, equally as delicious but perhaps even more niche, in the UK at least. So while we've had lots of "interest" from customers at the markets we attend, food writers in the UK never having considered Lebanon as a source of good quality ingredients, have left the subject unwritten, it seems.